‘It’s impossible not to be moved’: The ultimate whale-watching adventure
A close encounter with one of these larger-than-life leviathans is a life-changing experience – here’s how and where to do it
No one ever says: “I can’t remember if I’ve seen a whale”. A close encounter with one of these larger-than-life leviathans is a life-changing experience.
Over the past 40 years, I’ve spent countless hours watching all sorts of whales, all over the world – and I still look forward to my next encounter as if it were my first. It’s no surprise to me then that whale-watching is one of the fastest-growing sectors of the travel industry. Already, it’s a multi-billion-dollar business, involving 119 countries and overseas territories.
But what is it about these enigmatic animals that makes them so special? Their sheer size, of course, is one possible explanation: it’s impossible not to be moved by a close encounter with the largest animal on Earth (an average-sized blue whale is roughly the length of a Boeing 737). Or perhaps it’s because they are air-breathing mammals, like us, but behave more like submarines (sperm whales have been known to hold their breath for more than two hours).
Personally, I think there’s a more obvious explanation: quite simply, they are great fun to watch. At the risk of sounding unscientific, getting up close with a whale is good for the soul. When such an enormous animal comes alongside the boat and greets you like an old friend, it’s a truly humbling experience. As a matter of fact, it can be surprisingly hard to tell who is supposed to be watching whom
Here’s how to enjoy one of the world’s greatest travel experiences for yourself.
What to see
There are no fewer than 94 recognised species of whales, dolphins and porpoises (known collectively as cetaceans) and many are seen regularly on whale-watching trips.
- Humpback whale
Found worldwide, the humpback is especially popular with whale watchers because it is so inquisitive and acrobatic. Male humpbacks sing complex and melodious songs and listening to one of their live underwater concerts (with the help of a waterproof microphone) is unforgettable.
- Grey whale
Often regarded as the friendliest whale in the world. Go to a breeding lagoon in Baja California, on the Pacific coast of Mexico, to scratch and tickle a “friendly” adult or calf under the chin. Alternatively, stand on one of countless lookout points along the west coast of North America and watch a procession of grey whales on their annual long-distance migrations close to the shore.
- Killer whale or orca
Who doesn’t want to see a killer whale? Instantly recognisable, this top predator lives in close-knit family groups. It is possible to see killer whales in many parts of the world, from Arctic Norway and Vancouver Island to Western Australia and the Antarctic.
- Blue whale
The largest animal known to have lived on earth and the Holy Grail for many whale watchers. There are several hotspots, including Skjálfandi Bay in Iceland, Baja California in Mexico, Monterey Bay in California and the Gulf of St. Lawrence in Canada.
- Sperm whale
The original Moby Dick, with an enormous head and wrinkled skin, the sperm whale is designed for life in the ocean depths. But you can get a great view as it catches its breath on the surface between dives. Or you can get in the water with them, under carefully controlled conditions, off the coast of Dominica, in the Caribbean.
- Southern right whale
A large, stocky whale that breeds in South America, southern Africa and Australasia. Unmistakable with strange-looking callosities (hardened patches of skin) on its head, it can be very inquisitive and is often highly active at the surface.
- Bowhead whale
The only large whale found exclusively in the Arctic. It is difficult to see except on expedition cruises to remote corners of Greenland, Canada and Russia, but this is what makes it top of the list for many keen whale watchers. Its claim to fame is its long life – one individual, killed by whalers, was estimated to be 211 years old.
- Narwhal
Another high Arctic species, and a particularly elusive one, best known for the male’s extraordinarily long, spiralling tusk (actually an elongated tooth). Your best chance of a close encounter is to join a spring camping trip, on the floe edge (where open water meets ice still attached to the shoreline), to watch a procession of narwhals on their predictable migrations north.
- Beluga whale
Found in the Arctic and sub-Arctic and often seen on expedition cruises to Svalbard (I’ve even seen them from the security queue at Longyearbyen Airport) and in Arctic Canada. There are dedicated beluga-watching trips in Churchill and several other locations in Canada.
- Common minke whale
A relatively small and undemonstrative whale, it rarely shows much of itself and, in most parts of the world, tends to be uninterested in whale-watching boats. But it’s the species most often encountered around the coasts of Britain – and often the first many budding whale watchers get to see.
Where to go and when to go
There are really just two essential requirements for successful whale-watching: planning and patience.
Planning is needed because there are certain whale hotspots – where you have the best chance of seeing them – and peak times of year. Patience is necessary because even the largest whales can be tricky to find.
Here are just a few of my favourite locations, the best places for whale-watching and my tips on when to visit.
Baja California, Mexico
Baja California, on the Pacific coast of Mexico, is arguably the best place in the world for whale-watching. With a little luck, in a couple of weeks, you can tickle implausibly friendly grey whales under the chin, listen to humpback whales singing, enjoy unforgettably close encounters with gargantuan blue whales, travel with thousands of boisterous common dolphins, and see a host of other species from sperm whales to pygmy beaked whales in between. The season is February to April.
Canadian Arctic
Northern Canada is the place to go for the three truly Arctic whale species (bowhead whale, narwhal and beluga). There are some day trips: Churchill for belugas; Foxe Basin for bowhead whales; and there are opportunities to camp on the ice edge near Pond Inlet, to watch narwhals migrating past. But the easiest way to have a chance of seeing all three species – and polar bears – is to join an expedition cruise ship for a two-week adventure. The main season is May to early September.
South-east Alaska
This wild region is best known for one of the greatest wildlife spectacles on the planet – bubble-netting humpback whales. Groups of whales construct enormous circular fishing nets with bubbles to catch vast shoals of herring and then launch themselves high into the air with their mouths wide open. The other main attraction is killer whales, with a supporting cast that includes minke whales, Pacific white-sided dolphins and Dall’s porpoises. The main season is May to September.
Monterey Bay, California
Monterey Bay is one of the premier whale-watching destinations in North America. Trips operate year-round, with blue whales, killer whales, northern right whale dolphins and many others preferring specific seasons. If you are really serious about your whale-watching, choose a longer pelagic trip, seeking more unusual species farther out over the deeper waters of the Bay.
Dominica, the Caribbean
This Caribbean hideaway has a resident population of sperm whales (mainly nursery groups of mothers and their calves) just offshore. This is one of the few places in the world where you are allowed to snorkel with whales – book a week and you are almost guaranteed to spend quality time with them. The whales are present year-round but whale-watching is best November to April.
The Azores
Lying some 1,500km west of mainland Portugal, the Azores has a well-deserved reputation as one of the best whale-watching destinations in Europe. Sperm whales and bottlenose, common and Risso’s dolphins are the highlight, but many others are seen regularly and it is possible to encounter as many as seven species in a single trip. Tours operate from four islands year-round, but the best weather and sea conditions (and the greatest variety of species) is during summer.
Iceland
Where can you encounter minke whales in the orange glow of the midnight sun, watch killer whales against a striking backdrop of snow-capped mountains, sail alongside blue whales on the Arctic Circle, observe feeding humpback whales and even see white-beaked dolphins within sight and sound of the capital city? Iceland, of course. There are fabulous whale-watching trips from the harbour in Reykjavik, but some of the best are from Husavik on the north coast. Tours operate year-round, though different species are seasonal.
Western Cape, South Africa
This is one of the few places in the world where the whales are so close to shore it is possible to watch them from your hotel room. You are most likely to see southern right whales, but humpbacks, Bryde’s whales and several species of dolphin are here as well. The main hub is the delightful town of Hermanus. Alternatively, try driving the meandering and scenic Cape Whale Route: there are official whale viewing sites dotted every few miles along its length, where you can pull off the road and watch whales in the same way that, in lesser parts of the world, you can pull off the road and buy hamburgers. The season is June to November.
Bay of Biscay
Fancy an inexpensive quick-fix whale-watch trip in Europe? Look no further than the Bay of Biscay. Simply join a short cruise on one of the comfortable ferries that ply the waters between southern England and northern Spain. It takes 20 to 24 hours each way, depending on the route, which means spending two nights and three days at sea for a return trip. Regular species include fin whale, common minke whale, sperm whale, Cuvier’s beaked whale, long-finned pilot whale and umpteen different dolphins. Whale-watching here is year-round, though there are dramatic changes in both species and abundance with the seasons.
Antarctic Peninsula
Antarctic minke whales, humpback whales and killer whales gather along the Antarctic Peninsula in significant numbers during the southern summer. Seeing them amongst the ice, with some of the most spectacular scenery in the world as a backdrop, is unforgettable. A variety of other species, from blue whales to hourglass dolphins, can be seen en route in the Drake Passage. There is really only one way to explore this wildlife-rich corner of Antarctica: on an expedition cruise ship. The best time to go for whales is later in the season (late February and early March).
Hervey Bay, Queensland, Australia
Half a day’s drive north of Brisbane is picturesque Hervey Bay – dubbed the whale-watching capital of Australia and the world’s first Whale Heritage Site. The whales here seem to be particularly inquisitive and close encounters are almost commonplace. The main season is July to October (with a peak in whale sightings from early August to late September); mothers and calves are most common towards the end of the season.
What to book
The sheer variety of whale-watching opportunities can be a little overwhelming. You can watch them from the air, from the shore, underwater, and from a motley collection of yachts, rubber inflatables, motor cruisers, fishing boats, research vessels, kayaks, ex-whaling vessels and huge ocean-going ships, and on trips lasting anything from a few hours to several weeks.
Here are a few important considerations to bear in mind:
- What is the boat like?Is there plenty of deck space, so you won’t miss any sightings? Does it have shelter from the sun, rain, wind and spray? Bear in mind that smaller vessels offer a more intimate experience, while larger vessels tend to offer the most comfort and stability.
- What is the operator’s success rate at finding whales?It is a good sign if they offer a free return-trip guarantee if there are no sightings.
- Do they have a naturalist on board? The best are skilled at finding the animals and provide interesting and educational commentaries.
- Do they adhere to local whale-watching regulations?It is sometimes easy to forget that we are uninvited guests in the whales’ world and we have a responsibility to cause as little disturbance as possible.
When to book
There is no good or bad time to book. Many regular half-day whale-watching trips are available the day before, or even on the day of departure. At the other extreme, live-aboard boats and expedition cruise ships can fill up more than a year in advance. It is sometimes possible to jump on at short notice – taking advantage of no-shows or cancellations – if you don’t mind waiting around port for a few days. Ushuaia, in southern Argentina, is a good place to try – it’s the kicking-off point for most Antarctic Peninsula trips.
How much does it cost?
Costs range from free (you can watch whales from the shore in many parts of the world) to £15,000-plus for an expedition cruise to a remote wilderness. Depending on location, expect to pay £50-£100 for a half-day trip.
What to pack
1. Binoculars
Great for finding distant whales, identifying difficult species and studying their behaviour more closely. Buy a pair with good magnification (8x or 10x is ideal) but don’t go too high or it will be hard to hold them steady in a rolling sea.
2. Polaroid sunglasses
These help to reduce the sun’s glare and are fantastic for seeing whales more clearly when they are swimming just beneath the surface. Remember to attach them to a safety cord so they don’t fall off when you’re leaning over the side.
3. Field guide
You could rely on the naturalist, but it’s fun to identify the whales yourself – and a guide is a great way to learn more about all the species you see. The most comprehensive and up-to-date guide is Field Guide to Whales, Dolphins and Porpoises by Mark Cawardine (Bloomsbury Publishing, available from Telegraph Books).
4. Seasickness tablets
If you are in any doubt, take a seasickness tablet at least one hour before setting off. If you wait until you are feeling sick, it will be too late. Pick a non-drowsy version. Ginger can help to prevent mild to moderate cases
5. Waterproofing
Whale watching often involves getting wet, so take waterproof clothing, a waterproof bag to protect your camera equipment and binoculars, and rubber-soled shoes in case the deck is wet and slippery.
The best deals
Learn new skills
Train to be a Marine Mammal Surveyor (a one-day online interactive course will teach you everything you need to know) then put your new-found citizen science skills to good use on an ORCA Sea Safari on the Bay of Biscay. Courses are £120 per person and Biscay three-day cruises start at £199 per person.
Expert adventure
Wildlife Worldwide offers a trip with a special objective for serious whale watchers – the chance to see and photograph trap-feeding Eden’s whales. Little more than an hour away from the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, these surprisingly colourful whales hang at the surface of the water with their mouths wide open, to catch anchovies. From £7,495 per person for 10 days, including flights.
Flexible day trips
Book a week’s worth of world-class whale-watching in California with Monterey Bay Whale Watch – a mixture of eight-hour and 12-hour trips – and return to shore each afternoon or evening to a hotel of your choice. Prices are around $170 per person for each eight-hour trip.
Room with a view
The Marine Hotel in Hermanus offers the chance to watch cavorting southern rights whales and their calves from the comfort of your hotel bedroom, or from one of the many wonderful cafes and restaurants in the self-declared Whale Capital of South Africa. Doubles from £214 per night.
